After long days of walking in Florence,
in the heat,
surrounded by the beauty of this elegant city,
aching legs and backs,
often lost,
seeking respite from the other tourists
and their noise and disregard,
we would board the 14a bus for the
30 minute ride to Girone.
Once there, we would walk again.
This time, uphill,
but quiet and solitary,
the smell of countryside,
darkness offering the sight of stars,
things familiar to us.
We rested easy and
awoke to morning light
over olives and grapes.
Some Pictures - We Are All Tourists
- click photographs to enlarge
There was a moment on this trip when I realized that I was just another tourist. Until that time I had mistakenly, and arrogantly, believed I was somehow different than the throngs of people around me reading the same guide books, making the same photographs, and drinking the same bottled water they stored in backpacks. Just the number of selfie-sticks, and the corresponding selfies being made with them, was overwhelming. I had the sense people were less interested in the actual sights and more interested in showing the world they had been there. I thought,
that's not me.
I wanted to believe because I was half Italian and could speak a few words of the language, I possessed some unique and intuitive insight into the culture and history. That my photographs and observations would stand alone and mark me as an insider, rather than the outsider I clearly was to anyone paying attention.
Rome and Florence were on the verge of "too much." There are people everywhere. Europeans, Americans, Asians, and all points in between. Rude people, friendly people, tired and hungry people. People ecstatic about being in places they had previously only dreamed of being. People willing to stand in line for hours to see the Vatican art collection or wade through pedestrian torrents on the Ponte Vecchio.
Italy is absolutely dependent on these millions of tourists that flock to its churches and galleries and incomparable vistas and beaches. Tourism is a major revenue producer throughout the country, but some cities and towns would cease to exist without it. It seems that everyone in these places is a tour guide, or runs a hotel, or is an entertainer that caters to the fantasies of visitors.
So, here we are. Pressing flesh with unknowns on packed trains. Sipping wine and coffee in quiet cafes on remote side alleys. Vowing not to enter another church. Relishing the soft voices and respect in a little-visited, underground cemetery for those not able to afford to be buried in a church. A meal with my Sicilian cousins and their wives in a restaurant filled with locals where my cousin Enzo coaxed Leslie into eating things she never dreamed she would put in her mouth.
Throughout all of it, I play the tourist.
Some Pictures - Some Churches
On our trip Leslie mentioned I seemed to want to go into every church we came to, hinting that maybe I had yet to truly give up the Catholicism of my early years. I countered by talking about ritual and pageantry, western civilization, the incredible art and the role the Catholic Church played throughout history in fostering and sustaining those things. In that sense she was right. I was still tied to the church and was easily sucked in through the gilded doors where I could bask in the sculptures, stained glass and murals, and the omnipresent depictions of the crucifixion that I had studied and grown up with.
My grandmother took me to Italy in 1967. I was nineteen and just starting my fifteenth year of Catholic education. To say I had been a "good Catholic boy" and "model citizen" to that point would be understating things. I was ardent, and a believer, a grand knight of our church's altar boys, who had once pondered the priesthood. But that was a changing time and I, too, was changing, coming in contact with outside forces, and beginning to think more for myself.
That trip forced me to confront my belief in the Catholic Church, and ultimately, my faith. Faced with the spectacle of the church, its immense riches and control over people's lives, I was left confused and questioning. Quite simply, how could a religion that preached humility and openness and a commitment to the poor, lavish itself in such splendor? it's a question I've never been able to answer with any satisfaction, and, if anything, my views on the church have only grown more extreme and negative.
That said, I didn't tire of these churches and found myself making offerings in many of them. I lit candles in front of altars that especially moved me and sat quietly in empty side chapels. And I did want to go into most all of them. I told myself I was supporting the art, the history, the sheer beauty.
But I left those places with my belief intact.
Some Pictures - Of Purple
Some Pictures - Some Streets
Some Pictures - the Messages
Most anywhere in Italy a person is left confused by
the assault of mixed messages.
They're impossible to miss and
always involve the age-old struggle,
the sacred versus the profane.
One playing off the other
within the same frame.
Daring you to choose.
Quelle viva.
Some Pictures - The Question
Some Pictures - Docking
This is a slightly different version of an iphone photograph I published on facebook and instagram the day I made it, April 14. I like this one better - it's wider, more panoramic, and framed with the piers that tighten the image. And the addition of the seagulls. Made from the deck of the Florio Rubbatino as we entered Naples harbor in the early morning after an all-night ferry from Palermo. Mt. Vesuvius is on the right.
The idea of cruising into Naples on this ship was important for me. Naples was the point of departure for my maternal grandparents on their journeys to the United States, my grandmother in 1906 and mio nonno in 1913. I wanted to see for myself their last view of their home country, perhaps the image of place that remained in their memories.
I don't know what time of day their ships left, but I suspect the view itself would have been much the same as now, a century later - the cranes and port, the mountains, the gulls; only the jetstream would not have been there and it, but a fortunate reference to a moment in time. The sky and water have been spoken of since Greek times. And, of course, Vesuvius.
I can only wonder what my grandparents were thinking. They were leaving a very poor country, going to what they felt would be a better life. And it was. Gram was only eight or nine years old and secure in the company of her entire family so I'm guessing for her it was all a big adventure. Grandpa was older at sixteen and traveling with his older brother and it must have been a journey to the unknown. They left their family in Sicily and never saw them again.
All of this is in my head as I wake at five and head to the bar for an espresso and its welcome eye-focuser. On deck, it's crisp, bracing I think they call it. The smell and taste of the salt air, they've always been there. Light is coming and I began to see land. The mountains first and then the city, harbor and water. Is this what they saw? Is the excitement I'm feeling on arriving, the same as what they felt on leaving?
We Are All Local - Marshall Drag
For a number of years now, we've had professional wrestlers, strippers, Dog Daze and Mermaids in Madison County, but to the best of my knowledge, this was our first Drag Queen Dance Party.
Some Pictures - The Coliseum by Bus
I've just got to ask, "How many pictures of the Coliseum do we really need?"
Obviously, one more.
Some Pictures - the Stations
During our trip I was making photographs with both my cell phone and my camera. The cell phone allowed me to post images immediately on facebook and instagram, but photographs on the camera would have to wait until I got home. As is often the case, the phone image of a particular scene that I posted during the trip often turns out to be not as good as one from the camera. That is the case with this picture, which is far better and more interesting than the one I published on April 13, Holy Thursday, in Palermo, Sicily.
Some Pictures - la fattoria
How you see the world is all about where you stand.
Some Pictures
Some Pictures - Graffiti 2
I don't see much graffiti in Madison County, which might serve to explain my fascination with it. Italians, at least those in the cities, seem to believe every available surface is just another pallet, made to carry a message. Often, the language is political and speaks to dissent; there is clearly a sense of darkness somewhere below the surface. I wonder who paints them, and mounts these posters, and why? And I marvel at their existence alongside the Italy of light and color, that of gelato and high fashion.
Some Pictures - Graffiti 1
Some Pictures - Jesus Everywhere
Italy is a Catholic country, having become the official religion of the Roman Empire in AD 380 under Emperor Theodosius. It's been here a long time. And while most everyone identifies as being Catholic, few people actively practice the religion. They might go to services once or twice a year, but otherwise go about their lives in a most secular fashion. But there is also a deep and sincere love of the rituals and symbols. And I sense people take comfort and security from the knowledge the religion is all around them and has been forever. Images of Jesus and his friends and family are quite literally everywhere.
Some pictures
I made a lot of photographs on our recent trip to Italy. Some were bad and immediately tossed, others were nice and coherent and offer a good record of our visit, and some are quite good. I made photographs on my iphone, which were pretty immediately uploaded to instragram and facebook. I made many more images with my camera that I am just now uploading and editing and preparing to publish on my blog since I know many of my blog readers don't subscribe to instagram and facebook.
I'm not going to post these in any particular order, no running, chronological commentary of our four weeks in Italy. These will just be pictures I like, pictures that ask questions, pictures that maybe communicate some of the utter enthusiasm I was feeling while photographing in a new and visually-stimulating place. I haven't been this excited about making photographs in some time.
Some of the pictures will have writing with them,
many won't.
Here's one of the last I made.
It's our last day, the last few hours really.
Soon, we'll be on one of those planes,
heading west, back to reality, in a sense.
We booked a room in a fancy hotel in a fishing village
near the airport.
The village itself is small, well-placed
at the conjunction of the Tiber River and the Tyrrhenian Sea.
A balcony overlooked the harbor and jetty with boats readied for their morning run.
I vowed to see them off.
Our last night. We stayed up late.
Our last taste of wine on Italian soil,
the last pasta with fish.
Walking along the jetty.
Taking full advantage of our well-appointed room.
Free wifi, hot shower with great pressure, quiet,
a big comfortable bed.
I rose at six.
The boats were long gone.
So, I walked.
Wanting the air, and the morning light,
thinking there may be a final picture to be had.
I see two men on the jetty casting lines into the sea.
They're far away and it's not a very good picture,
but I raise my camera anyway.
Inexplicably, with his back turned, one senses me.
And he's not happy I'm there, camera in hand.
He's yelling in Italian, I don't know what,
but, of course, I do.
I thought,
this is the age-old issue between locals and
tourists who see them as visual objects,
memories to be captured.
Or perhaps,
he believed my presence would impede his fishing
and ruin his beautiful morning.
Reasonable enough.
But I wonder,
if this is not a simple clash of civilizations.
An invasion of tourists with cameras, and luggage,
and big hotels, and money.
Wanting what the locals have had for centuries.
At least a memory of it.
I turn and walk away,
embarrassed by my insensitivity,
but also pissed at the man's hyper-sensitivity.
The walkway is littered with all manner of
cigarette butts, plastic, broken glass, clothing, garage.
It struck me as an act of defiance -
no, we will not clean up for the tourists.
I see another fisherman. He sees me.
I stop. He ignores me.
A plane flies by.
I think, that's me.
Leaving, but caught on the end of his line.
Travels
For followers of my blog, I have been absent from my site for the last 3 weeks. Leslie and I have been in Italy and I've been unable to post images on the blog. I have been posting pictures on Facebook and Instagram for those of you interested. I will resume blogging when we return home next week.
Thank you all for your kind support.
Rob
We Are All Local
In 1978 my friend John Rountree and I made a canoe trip the length of the French Broad River. We called it The River Trip. We started just outside of Rosman and ended at Lake Douglas in east Tennessee. John had received some monies from the Tennesse Valley Authority and Mars Hill College to do a photographic survey of the French Broad and I was along for the ride. The French Broad was a mess in those days. We passed numerous industrial plants dumping raw effluents, cows wading, defecating, and dying in the river, and remote areas used as community dumpsites. In Madison County in those days many families straight-piped directly into creeks that emptied into the river.
This problem of water pollution wasn't isolated to the French Broad. Rather, it was a national issue and most everyone remembers stories of the Cuyahoga River in northern Ohio spontaneously catching fire one summer day from all of the industrial waste. So, in 1972, under Richard Nixon's administration, Congress passed the Clean Water Act, which establishes the basic structure for regulating discharges of pollutants into the waters of the United States and regulating quality standards for surface waters. Altogether, this has been a good law for the land that has benefited all of us. In Madison County, over 50,000 people raft the French Broad River annually and trout fishing is now estimated to be a $384 million dollar industry in western North Carolina. The River Arts District in Asheville is now a nationally-known destination for art lovers and beer aficionados. All made possible by the quality of our water.
So now I read that the new Administration, especially the EPA director, wants to roll back regulation and eliminate the Clean Water Act. They want to make it okay once again for industries to dump their waste into our rivers and streams - places where we take our children and families to picnic, get cool on hot summer days, and fish.
They say this is about Freedom and jobs. But for me, the reasoning behind this way of thinking is pretty evident - it's about money, more money in the hands of their benefactors, their industry cronies, and their friends. They act like they are populists, working for the good of the common man, but nothing could be farther from the truth. Every common man knows that only a fool would foul his own nest, yet that is exactly what this new administration is preaching, or selling. Our nests get fouled while their nests get feathered.